Please note that the acid will stain your skin or worse, so be careful not to spill any on yourself and don’t even think of getting any in your eyes.

Gold:
There are 9kt, 14kt, 18kt and 22k testing acids.
The process is simple, scratch or rub the metal (jewelry) onto the testing stone. Try to do it in a spot that won’t be noticeable.
Place app half a drop of the closest acid to the karat you estimate the metal to be. Mostly I like to start with 14kt and move up or down.

•If the acid dissolves the metal it’s less then the karats on the bottle and you should try again with lower level acid.
•If it dissolves the metal slowly, it’s possible you would have a bit less then the karat of the acid in the bottle.
•If the metal stays it’s most likely the karat of the acid in the bottle.

Platinum
Should stay and not dissolve under the platinum acid. Some platinum is 800 type of platinum and will dissolve a bit.

Silver:
Rub extra metal onto the stone, apply a nice drop and wait for a reaction.

•0.999 pure silver will turn bright red color
•0.925 sterling silver will turn dark red color
•0.800 silver will turn brown color
•0.500 silver will turn green

The average 16″ strand will contain the following number of beads:

•4mm= approx. 100 beads
•5mm= approx. 80 beads
•6mm= approx. 67 beads
•7mm= approx. 57 beads
•8mm= approx. 50 beads

Because you may wish to include a mixture of sizes in the necklace or bracelet, it is important to know how to determine just how many beads of a given size will be required. It is fairly simple to figure out the number of beads needed for a length of finished strand and the easiest method it as follows:

1.one inch = 25.4 mm
2.multply 25.4 by the number of beads (excluding clasp) in the finished strand. for example: the strands will be 16″. 16″ x 25.4 mm = 406.4 mm
3.divide the total number of millimeters in the final length (in this case, 406.4mm) by the diameter of the beads to be used (let’s use 4mm), and the result wll be the number of beads. For example, 406.4mm (16″) divided by 4mm = 101.6 beads.
Remember when computing the length of the finished strand, to provide any findings such as clasps that will be included in the design, these will increase the length from 1/2″ to an inch or 1 1/2″ depending on your choices.

Threads, Findings and Equipment

While beads are the main ingredient of the necklace or bracelet, other materials, such as thread or wire and clasps are very important, additionally, there are a variety of tools that you will find extremely helpful, and a good working environment is essential.

The selection of threading materials varies as the beads themselves. String cord or wire is manufactured with a very tight twist that provides the material with strength and durability and is sometimes coated for additonal protection. Stringing thread or wire can be obtained on cards or spools. The most important qualities to look for when selecting thread or wire are the that the thread will pass through the smallest borehole of the beads, and that it is strong enough to support the weight of the finished bead.

The following describes which stringing material is best for various beads:

•pearls–silk thread
•beads with smooth drill holes–silk, polyester or nylon
•beads with abrasive holes–polyester or nylons
•beads with metallic, large or large bore drill holes –tigertail or foxtail
•ropes or woven necklaces–nylon
Findings: the term ‘ findings’ is used throughout the jewelry industry to collectively describe a variety of prefabricated items such as, jumprings, bead tips, headpins, clasps. These items are useful and necessary for the ease and comfort of the wearer in putting on and removing, they provide the means of connecting strands and they add a touch of quality to your design.

•Headpins: the headpin is a length of wire with a flat at one end. It is used to string a bead, or several beads, then connect them to the strand by making a loop at one end.
•Clasps: Clasps do just that–clasp strands together. As with the bead they are connecting. Clasps come in a variety of shapes and styles. Some connect both ends of a single strand, some connect several strands, individually, while others accomodate a wide range of several strands together. Clasps can be simple or very ornate. Some are made so that they are not seen as a clasp, but part of the overall design.
Tools & Equipment

•Pliers: a pair of pliers is a must for closing bead tips, opening and closing jumprings and it can be used to help tighten knots. Chain nose pliers are the most practical kind to use, because the outside of the nose is rounded, while the inside is flat or gripping, the tip of the plier should be long and narrow.
•Ruler: a 24″ ruler, marked in millimeter’s as well, will be necessary to keep track of the length of the strand on which you are working.
•Scissors: scissors are another must in your jewelry making tool kit, especially if working with thread. The best kind are not too large and they must be very sharp.
•Glue: you will need fast-drying type of cement that the jeweler’s use.
•Beading Boards are optional but are great to keep your area organized. These resemble trays and enable you to layout your designs without having beads rolling all over the floor. Some have compartments to hold the beads you are currently working with, and some have a pre-measured layout to help determine the length of the desired necklace or bracelet.
The importance of a good working environment cannot be stressed enough–the successful completion of a project, with comfort will depend on how well you have selected your beading niche. The ideal space will be well-lit and contain a sizeable work surface to provide enough room for all beading materials and equipment. Beads bounce, roll and slither, therefore, your work surface should be a non-stick variety. Felt, velvet or a scrap of carpet, or a towel. Any of these are suitable and will prevent any untimely bead escapes, resulting in frustrating searches on your hands and knees.

The overall size of the work area is important too! It is amazing how much room is needed for containing beads,threading materials and supplies.

•Useful guide for selecting the right wire for your beading projects:
.10″–Excellent for beading weaving, Peyote stitch, and small seed beads

.012″/.013″– Great for Austrian crystals, seed beads and freshwater pearls

015″/018″– Most versatile size available–use with heavy beads, metal, ceramic and fiber optic beads

.020″/.021″– Use with metal, large or heavy beads with medium to large drilled holes. Such as garnet, crystal & glass

0.21″/.026″–Terrific for metal, large or heavy bead with large drilled holes such as African Trade beads.

This will help New users learn how to use the Clay Push molds and hopefully some tips for the experianced users.

1.What are Push Molds?

Castings made with Polymer clay of many diffrent detailed impressions,that can be used to make your own creative designs that allow even the very begginner to make pieces that look like it took you hours to make.

2.How do I prevent the clay from sticking to the mold?

Always lightly dust the mold with Baby Powder before making impression. If it does get stuck,try putting the mold with the clay in it into the freezer for 2-3 minutes to help its release.

Over time Lots of use, the mold may develop a sticky residue,You can clean them by using rubbing alcohol.

3.How do I start making the designs and removing clay from the molds?

Always use softened clay..Can softened by hand or use a Pasta Machine to soften and condition clay.

Clay should feel like smooth Firm Putty

If you are using a deep mold ,form your clay into a sharp point or teardrop and press the point of the clay into the deepest part of the mold first then fill the mold from the center out.

I reccomend filling all molds from the center to the outter edge.

Fill enough to edges to have someting to hold onto to pull clay out of mold.Use a Sharp craft knife to trim off any excess.

After molding use a soft brush to remove excess powder.

4.Time to bake

Bake pieces according to Clay Manufacturers instructions.

You can use Colored Clay or White Clay for your projects..There are many diffrent types of paints and powders you can use on the finished baked pieces.

I will add more info as I get it about various aspects of using the clay.There are also many books available at your local craft stores.

I hope this Basic Guide has been of some help to you..

Please feel free to ask any further questions you may have..

Summary: Top color Tanzanite are all heated, either by man, or By the earth in nature,(Geothermal Heat) there have been a lot of sellers claiming they are selling NON heated Tanzanite, what they should be saying , is that they are selling TANZANITE THAT HAS NOT BEEN HEATED BY MAN… But as of writing this, there isn’t a test to tell weather a tanzanite has been heated by man or by the earth, even GIA states on there gem reports that evidence of heating is typically lacking.

Tanzanites come in a variety of colors including , pink, green ,yellow, and a root beer color, its these root beer color stones that are heated to achieve the top color violet/blues and Blue Violets and there are also stones in the rough that come out of the ground already with these beautiful colors, but they to were heated in nature by mother earth.

Hope this helps, if you folks need me to list more info regarding Tanzanites please don’t hesitate to ask.